A Day on the Isle of Eigg:
From Skepticism to Soul-Stirring Awe
We just returned from our 10-day Seaborn expedition cruise to Ireland and Scotland, and WOW… a truly incredible trip with many amazing stops.
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Mother’s Day this year (May 11th) started out strong with a 5-mile waterfall hike in the charming fishing village of Tobermory. But the real magic unfolded later that afternoon, when our small expedition cruise pulled into the tiny Isle of Eigg.
I had zero expectations – actually, I almost didn’t even go ashore. The island is home to just over 110 residents, and honestly, after the morning adventure and a phenomenal lunch (a story for another day), I was ready to call it. But my fellow travelers insisted: “You have to go.” So I did—and I’m so grateful I did.
Here’s why Eigg turned out to be my favorite moment of the entire trip.
A Warm Welcome – But Not Always the Case
We learned early on that Eigg had a complicated relationship with cruise visitors. The year before, a larger cruise ship’s passengers behaved more like spectators at a zoo… peeking in windows, taking photos of residents without asking, and leaving the locals feeling uneasy. With a community this small, it’s easy to see how a few poor experiences could sour things.
But this time was different.
Megan, one of our expedition guides, was actually from Eigg. She’d grown up there, still had family on the island, and now lives in Hawaii. Thanks to her personal ties and our travel network’s commitment to responsible tourism, the island opened its arms to us, even on a Sunday.
E-Bikes, Unexpected Views & Instagram-Worthy Beaches
As soon as we got off the Zodiac, our friends waved us over. “Want to rent an e-bike?” they called. Um… yes! Within minutes, we were zipping away from the tiny pier towards the destinations recommended by Owen of Eigg Adventures. He pointed us toward scenic stops: the local church, a stunning overlook marked with a yellow box, and a beach that, in his words, would make our Instagrams very happy.
He wasn’t wrong.
We got a little lost on the way, missing the red box that was supposed to mark the beach turn-off, but even that led to more beauty. We stumbled across a modern gray home perched high with sweeping sea views. Later, we found out the owner, Ben (who Megan knew), who pointed us in the right direction, and eventually we made it to the beach—steep climb, worth every step.
At the bottom, a man sat outside his tiny seaside cottage, the red Royal Mail truck parked in front, just soaking in the view. He looked completely at peace; I couldn’t blame him.
The Brewery, the Taxi, and the Town Character
After climbing back up, we stopped at the island’s tiny brewery—opened just for us thanks to our onboard expedition lead Megan and her powers of persuasion. Stu, the brewer, welcomed us with open arms. We practically wiped him out of beer and merch. That’s when Charlie showed up.
Let me tell you about Charlie. He’s the island’s only taxi driver, a known personality, and apparently the subject of a 60 Minutes segment. He strolled into the brewery wearing a shirt with his own face on it and the words “Don’t trust this man.” He was hilarious. Later, we learned he handed our CEO a communal glass and said, “There’s whiskey in the door—pour some and pass it around.” That’s Charlie. That’s Eigg.
Local Crafts, Big Impact
Back at the pier, most shops had already closed. But one, the craft shop, stayed open. I was expecting basic souvenirs, but instead, I walked into a brand-new building filled with stunning jewelry, fine art, and photographs. The man working there (Ted?) was gracious, passionate, and deeply proud of the island and its artisans. I bought a photograph of the beach (called “Laig”, pronounced “leg”) that will hang in my house forever.
When I thanked him for the hospitality, he replied, “Today has made my year.” That hit me.
Eigg: Community-Owned, Sustainably Run, Full of Heart
Eigg is unique—not just because of its beauty, but because of its people. The island is community-owned, bought collectively by its residents in 1997. They are self-sustaining, environmentally conscious, and protective of their home, as they should be. It’s not just where they live, it’s who they are.
I left Eigg that evening tired, exhilarated, and humbled. I went ashore out of obligation and left with what I’m calling the best moment of the trip.
Would I go back? In a heartbeat. Would I recommend it? Without hesitation.
Do I believe in the power of respectful, meaningful travel to connect people? Now more than ever.
Isle of Eigg—you stole my heart.
Looking for a truly unique, intimate adventure? Reach out here and let’s start dreaming.
Relax, we’ll take care of everything,
Amy Westerman
President
The Curated Travel Collection
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